Duratec Modifications

Here are a few recent modifications, firstly I changed the conventional belt driven water-pump to a Davies Craig electric water pump (EWP80).  The advantages of this are

  1. The EWP80 continually flows 80 litres of coolant an minute, regardless of engine speed

  2. It is less prone to pump cavitation at high revs

  3. It releases a few horsepower due to the crank not having to drive the standard pump

  4. Can be run with engine off after track session, to reduce heat soak

  5. Finally it simplifies my drive belt set-up.

Fitting the pump was very easy, I installed it onto the bottom hose of the radiator, just in front of the steering rack. 

EWP

I elected to run the pump continuously without a controller, as too much cooling is not a problem here in Dubai. 

Other modifications included removal of the thermostat from the water-railWater-rail

and re routing (simplifying) the engine drive belt and making a blanking plate to replace the old waterpump.

Blanking plate

I made the blanking plate by, unbolting the whole water pump, driving out the steel impeller and shaft form its alloy housing and then milling (angle grinder and file) the alloy housing until it was flat.  I chose to do this as without using a portion of the waterpump housing, I would not be able to get a good seal.  I then cut a piece of 5mm aluminium sheet and tapped some threads and screwed it to the remains of the old waterpump housing, with a smear of engine sealant to permanently seal it.  So far no leaks, never ceases to amaze me what you can do with an angle grinder and file.

As you can see below the drive belt for alternator is now dramatically simplified and there is no-drag from the water-pump.

Drive Belts

 

 

Next modification, the Duratec Cam-Chain Tensioner

The Duratec 2.3 cam-chain can be a bit sensitive to high revs, so here is the camchain tensioner mod, developed by Peter McKewan of www.Raceline.co.uk

From my understanding the modded versions stops the tensioner from getting damaged during back-lashing at high revs (above 7400 rpm or so), particularly on the longer run of chain on the 2.3.  The original Ford tensioner, gets damaged by the ratchet stop mechanism getting smacked by the guide under backlash conditions (lifting off throttle quickly).  This can break one or two teeth on the tensioner ratchet mechanism.  The modded version has the ratchet removed and replaced by a suitably machined bolt and lock-nut that acts as a permanent stop.  The hydraulic tensioning component works as before, its just the stop that is upgraded.

Standard Tensioner
Perfectly functional Ford tensioner

Tensioners compared
Old & New tensioner

Modified Tensioner

New Tensioner installed

Modified Tenioner from top
This shows the required fixed clearance


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